Regional & Seasonal

How to Set Up a Bird Feeding Station in a UK Garden

A good feeding station is about placement more than the pole. Where to put it, how high, what to hang on each arm, and how to keep it from feeding the local squirrels, pigeons and Sparrowhawk.

8 min read · Updated 2026-10-27

Gear for this job

Equipment for this job

Feeders and a baffle that fit a standard station arm or pole. We deliver to the UK.

Great Tit perched on a branch
Great Tit perched on a branch — photo: Frank Vassen, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons
Height
Feeders about 1.5–2 m off the ground
Cover
Dense shrub or hedge within about 2 m
Squirrel jump
Keep 3 m clear of fences, walls and branches
Core feeders
Seed tube, sunflower hearts, suet, plus water
Clean
Every 1–2 weeks; move the station a metre or so occasionally

Start with where, not what

Most people buy a feeding station, push it into the middle of the lawn and wonder why the birds stay in the hedge. Small birds judge a feeder on one thing first: how far is the nearest cover if a Sparrowhawk or a cat appears? Sparrowhawks are now common in towns and suburbs across Britain, and garden birds know it.

The sweet spot is a feeder roughly two metres from a dense shrub, hedge or climber. That is close enough for a tit to dash back into cover, but not so close that a cat can sit in the hedge and pounce on birds feeding on the ground. A station in the open middle of a lawn will be used, but more nervously and by fewer species.

  • Within view of a window you actually use — kitchen or living room.
  • On level ground that drains, so dropped seed doesn't sit in a wet patch.
  • Away from the spot where you hang washing or park bikes; spilt seed and droppings land below.
  • At least 3 m from fences, walls, sheds and overhanging branches if grey squirrels live nearby.

Height and spacing

Hang feeders roughly 1.5 to 2 metres off the ground. Higher than that and refilling becomes a chore; lower and cats find it easy. Space feeders on separate arms so a dominant bird on one can't guard them all, and so larger birds such as Starlings or Woodpigeons don't block the smaller ones.

If you have room, run two smaller stations rather than one crowded one. Spreading food out reduces squabbling and, importantly, reduces the number of birds packed onto the same perches, which is how diseases such as trichomonosis spread.

What to hang on each arm

A balanced station feeds the main UK garden groups without wasting food. Think of it as one feeder per diet.

  • Sunflower hearts in a tube feeder: the single most useful food. Tits, Goldfinches, Greenfinches, Chaffinches, sparrows and Robins all take them.
  • Suet balls or a suet block in a cage: Great Spotted Woodpeckers, Starlings, tits and Long-tailed Tits in winter. Take netting off suet balls; birds catch feet and tongues in it.
  • Nyjer seed in a fine-port feeder if you want Goldfinches and Siskins. Buy small quantities — it goes stale.
  • Peanuts only in a steel mesh feeder, especially from spring to late summer, so whole nuts can't be carried to chicks.
  • A shallow dish of water nearby. Birds need to drink and bathe all year, and water is often the hardest thing to find in a frozen January.

Keeping squirrels, pigeons and rats in check

Grey squirrels will find a feeding station within days. They jump about 1.5 m straight up and much further sideways from a fence or branch. A dome or cone baffle on the pole, mounted at least 1.2 m above the ground, stops a climb from below; distance stops the jump. Caged feeders with a gap a little over 3 cm let tits and finches in and keep squirrels and Woodpigeons out.

Rats and pigeons come for the food on the ground, not the feeders. Put out only what the birds clear in a day, use a seed tray under the feeders if spillage builds up, and choose husk-free foods. Bringing feeders in at night is the quickest way to stop rats if they appear.

Hygiene and moving the station

Clean feeders every one to two weeks with hot soapy water, rinse and let them dry before refilling. Brush up droppings and old seed beneath the station. Every few weeks, move the whole station a metre or two onto fresh ground so the area underneath doesn't become contaminated. If you see sick finches, stop feeding for at least two weeks and clean everything.

Through the year

Feed all year if you can keep it clean. Winter and early spring are when food matters most, and BTO Garden BirdWatch counts show garden use peaking then. In summer, cut back to sunflower hearts, mealworms and water, and avoid loose peanuts and large chunks of fat. In late summer, traffic drops because birds are moulting and wild seed and fruit are everywhere. That is normal. They return as autumn turns cold.

Sources

Feeding and hygiene advice follows RSPB and BTO guidance.

Frequently asked

Where is the best place to put a bird feeding station?

About two metres from dense cover such as a hedge or shrub, in view of a window, and at least three metres from fences or branches squirrels could jump from.

How high should bird feeders be in the UK?

Roughly 1.5 to 2 metres off the ground — high enough to deter cats, low enough to refill and clean easily.

How do I stop squirrels on my feeding station?

Fit a baffle on the pole at least 1.2 m up, keep the station 3 m from launch points, and use caged feeders for seed.

Should I feed garden birds in summer?

Yes, with care. Offer sunflower hearts, soaked mealworms and water; keep peanuts in mesh feeders and keep everything clean.

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